Cambodia’s second largest city, Battambang is a great destination for an escape from the crowds of Angkor and the constant hustle and bustle of Phnom Penh. Just four hours by boat from Siem Reap, Battambang offers a unique look into Khmer life, some stunning natural attractions and remnants of the many Khmer-Thai conflicts over the past few centuries. While not a major destination on the tourist trail like Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, Battambang is a rewarding and interesting destination which attracts intrepid travelers the world over.

Battambang is accessible from both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap, with trips from either destination taking around four hours. All roads connecting the cities are major highways, so if you’ve heard shock tales about road conditions, don’t be too worried. In previous years these roads weren’t even paved — just mud and dirt roads with dangerous wooden bridges. While this type of transport network still exists in the further afield parts of Cambodia, Battambang is relatively modern and accessible.

While there is an airport in Battambang, it’s been closed since the completion of the Battambang-Phnom Penh highway. Battambang is also accessible from the Thai border town of Poipet — a notoriously seedy destination amongst backpackers — with buses leaving for the 80km journey.

What to see:

The bamboo train, known as ‘the norry’ to locals, is a charming way to see some of the local countryside. All the motorcycle taxi drivers in Battambang will know where to go, and it’s more simple to just take care of the trip yourself than to arrange it through a tour company. Approach a motorcycle taxi and ask if they can take you out there. It’s best to let them negotiate with the train operator directly, as they’ll likely receive the local price and you an inflated foreigner rate.

Be sure to explore the countryside around Battambang. Motorcycles can be rented in the city for just $4-5 per day, and they provide a great platform for seeing the local countryside and absorbing some rural Khmer life. There are several small villages around Battambang that are worth a visit, with major highways providing easy navigation for travelers. Those looking to adventure within the city itself will find some exotic delights at the town market and some charming French buildings around the city center.

Battambang is known for its French bakeries and cafes, which spot some of the main streets. Around the central market area you’ll be able to find delicious treats from as little as 500 riel, and full meals for well under $1USD. Battambang’s slightly lower intensity makes the town center a much better place for a quiet lunch than Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, and the lower prices make it a far more attractive relaxation destination.

Finally, there are several attractive colonial buildings and Buddhist temples around the town. Phnom Sampeu, a small hill away from the city center, features some impressive Buddhist stupas and caves that were used as torture zones by Khmer Rouge soldiers. Take a morning to observe this beautiful and tragic area. Admission includes access to a large Buddhist wat, and is only $2.

Where to stay:

Accommodation in Battambang is inexpensive, even by Cambodian standards. Simple double bed hotel rooms can be found from as little as $4 per night, and will almost always include a simple ceiling fan for comfort. Toilets are usually shared, although rooms in the $7+ price bracket will generally include a private bathroom with hot water and a bathtub. Keep in mind that Battambang can get excruciatingly hot during the winter months, and an air conditioning unit goes a long way to help with the temperature. Simple air conditioned rooms start from around $10 per night.

On the other end of the scale, more comfortable rooms will cost around $30 per night, and typically include a queen or king sized bed along with balcony, air conditioning and breakfast. While these luxuries can be nice, the cheaper rooms provide more than enough to get by, and offer opportunities to live outside the hotel itself. Most of the higher end accommodation options can be found around Street 3.

How to get around:

Motorcycle taxis are almost everywhere, and while relatively dangerous, they’re by far the cheapest and quickest way to get around the city. As usual, make sure that you can get a helmet from the driver, as Battambang’s streets aren’t exactly orderly. Typical fares shouldn’t be much more than $1-2, with higher costs only really popping up for trips to the far edges of the city. Be sure to negotiate with drivers before hopping on.

If you’re planning on moving around the city often, motorcycles and scooters are available for hire from around $5. Most are simple 110-125cc Chinese semi-automatic scooters, complete with parcel rack and clutchless transmission. If you wish to explore the nearby countryside, these will prove more than adequate, however hardcore adventurers may need to look at Honda Baja dirt bikes, which are available from $15. Be sure to check the condition of bikes before renting, as damaged forks and brakes are relatively common on rental dirt bikes.

Costs, Customs and Extras:

While Battambang is still a major destination for tourists in Cambodia, it’s nowhere near the same level as Siem Reap and Phnom Penh. As such, prices are significantly lower, places are less crowded, and the people are less familiar with Western tourists. An important transport hub for some of Cambodia’s least explored towns, including ex-Khmer Rouge stronghold Pailin, Battambang is the best place to sort out travel arrangements to Cambodia’s smallest towns and villages.