When you come back from Thailand and tell your friends that you went for a massage, they will respond with a wink and a nudge. The most common response is to believe that you had “one of those” massages. And while those are certainly available, that’s not what traditional Thai massage is all about.

Just about every neighborhood in Thailand has a place for traditional massage, and a good, hour-long session can be had for as little as 500 baht. One of the most wonderful experiences you can have in Thailand is to go for a massage with a loved one or spouse, and lay side by side on adjacent massage tables while you both enjoy this ancient form of rejuvenation and relaxation. Beware though, if you’re expecting it to be gentle, you’ll be disappointed. This is a deep-tissue massage, and it’s meant to get right to the muscles that are giving you problems. The masseuse is highly trained, and has a remarkable understanding of the muscular system. If you have a tight spot, she’ll find it before you even have a chance to explain it to her, and she’ll work it right out of your system.

You walk into an unobtrusive building on a small soi. There are orchids in a vase on the front desk, relaxing music playing through the speakers, and the ever-present Buddha shrine and picture of the King located high on the wall. You change into loose pajama-like clothing your feet will be washed by an attendant, which in itself is a gentle and relaxing experience. Then you lay on the table. Your masseuse starts out slow, finding all of your pressure points, and getting a feeling for which of your muscles need attention.  She will work your muscles, and stretch your arms and legs in ways that you never knew were possible. It’s not sudden though, Thai massage involves gentle rocking motions that gradually culminate in more intense stretching. If it gets to be too much, just say, “Jep maak!” (“that hurts too much!”) and she’ll move on. But try to endure, and you’ll feel better than you have in years when it’s over. At the halfway mark, you take a five minute break and your masseuse will bring you a cup of hot ginger tea before she resumes. There is a natural progression to Thai massage, and in the second half, you will find it getting a bit more vigorous. When it’s all done, you forget all about whatever temporary discomfort you may have experienced. Those tight muscles are loose, your back that ached when you walked in is free of pain, and your feet that were sore from walking around Chatuchak Market all day feel like new. You’re ready to go out and do it all over again.

Many practitioners of traditional Thai massage study at Wat Pho in Bangkok, a temple also known as the “Temple of the Reclining Buddha.” The temple, which is near the Grand Palace, is a marvelous place to visit, and take in the majesty of the Reclining Buddha image (the largest in Thailand).  Massage is available right in the temple complex, which also serves as a university where traditional medicine is studied.