Luang Prabang
The pre-communist capital of Laos, Luang Prabang is a historically significant and visually stunning town in north Laos, accessible from the capital city or any number of northern provincial towns. The former seat of government, the city boasts an impressive array of French colonial buildings, riverfront views, and ancient Buddhist scenic spots and buildings. Now preserved as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the city is amongst the most popular and impressive tourist destinations in Laos, and for good reason.
One thing that travelers will no doubt notice about Luang Prabang is the remarkably non-South East Asian atmosphere. In certain parts of the city it’s not difficult to think that you’ve been transported to the south of France, complete with bakeries, cafes and French street signs. The remarkably Mediterranean building style is reflected in the city’s main streets, which are packed with European buildings, terraced housing and buzzing cafes and restaurants.
This European feeling extends to the menu, and Luang Prabang is renowned as one of the finest restaurant destinations in Laos. Be sure to check out the many French bakeries scattered around the town, offering bread, cakes and other delights that are sure to impress any cuisine fan. At night, the streets come alive with street vendors and food carts ready to whip up any Lao, Thai or Chinese food that you can think of.
What to see:
Luang Prabang is a destination in itself, and for good reason. Travelers will find as much enjoyment in simply strolling the city streets as they will moving to and from tourism destinations. Spend a lazy afternoon nursing a cold Beer Lao beside the impressive Mekong river, and enjoying a delicious Lao lunch at one of Luang Prabang’s many riverside restaurants.
The Royal Palace, or more accurately the former Royal Palace, is a great place to spend a morning, featuring interesting Lao architecture and artwork. Wat Xieng Toung, Luang Prabang’s oldest temple, is the perfect place to learn about Lao religious culture and Buddhist customs. Spend a morning at the temples then enjoy the hot afternoon sun beside the Mekong river.
Outside of the city there are several tourist attractions worth noting. The Pak Ou caves, known as the ‘Buddha Caves’ to some, are an extensive network of impressive caves. There are two caves available for exploration; one easily accessible to tourists and the other up a relatively difficult climb. It’s well worth the effort to visit the upper one, however if you’ve already visited caves in Vang Vieng, you’ll probably find something more enjoyable elsewhere.
South of the city, the Kuang Si Falls are the perfect swimming and recreation spot. Featuring some impressive waterfalls, the area has several swimming holes and shallow river spots on offer. Easily accessible by tuk-tuk or motorcycle taxi, the swimming holes are the perfect way to refresh and escape the intense afternoon sun.
Where to stay:
Accommodation in Luang Prabang is expensive by Lao standards, though easily affordable in most modest travel budgets. A respectable double room costs around $15, which will typically include basic amenities and services. However, you’re unlikely to get a comfortable room with river views and a high quality bathroom for anything less than $25. Shop around in the various riverside guesthouses, as they tend to offer varying levels of price and quality.
For those on the low end of the accommodation scale, there are rooms available from as little as $10, although the quality is nothing to write home about. A $10 room in Luang Prabang is around the same quality as a $5 room elsewhere in Laos, and will generally feature a shared bathroom, uncomfortable mattress and lack of any fan or air conditioning. If you can brave the heat and share a bathroom it may be worth it, however it’s certainly worth shelling out the extra $5 for a room with private bathroom and more comfortable surroundings.
It should be noted that less expensive accommodation is available the further you get from the river, but with motorcycle rental banned in Luang Prabang you’ll likely incur large transportation costs getting to and from the river. By all means look for accommodation further away, but keep in mind that the lower cost may be made up in transportation costs.
How to get around:
Due to Luang Prabang’s status as a UNESCO World Heritage site, motorcycle rental is banned within the city limits. This means that those 110cc scooters that are oh-so-common in the rest of Laos are off limits here. Thankfully, there are hundreds of motorcycle taxis available, each competing to take you to nearby tourist locations and across town. Prices are slightly higher than in the rest of Laos, though not exorbitant.
If you’re staying near the river, you’ll be able to reach most of the town on foot. Luang Prabang isn’t particularly big, and all the areas that are of interest to tourists are very close together. Take a room at one of the many riverside guesthouses and make your way along the main drag on foot, observing the hundreds of restaurants and shops as you go. If you want to reach more remote locations within the city, bicycles are available for rent from most major guesthouses.
Finally, tuk-tuks and private taxis are available for visiting further afield destinations, including the Buddha Caves and the many swimming holes near the city. Make sure to negotiate with the drivers when working out prices, as they’ll frequently overstate the price by as much as three times the market value. Spend some time working it out, but be friendly as you do so.
Costs, Customs and Extras:
Luang Prabang is a major tourist location in Laos, and is completely used to foreigners. While it’s slightly more expensive than most locations in Laos, it’s still entirely possible to get by on a budget of $25-30 per day. However, to fully enjoy the region it’s best to invest a little in some independent travel through the countryside, or at least a trip to the many nearby rivers, watering holes and scenic areas.
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