Laos’ relaxed and charming capital, Vientiane moves at a different pace to the standard South East Asian capital city. Roads are relatively unpopulated, people aren’t frantically trying to reach every destination and hotels and guesthouses are relaxed, accommodating and ready to help you out with whatever you need. Travelers tired of the constant hustle and bustle of Thailand and Cambodia will find a lot to love in Vientiane.

Situated on the banks of the Mekong river, Vientiane is relatively compact and simple to navigate. The vast majority of the tourist infrastructure is built on the five blocks closest to the river itself, with pharmacies, guesthouses and restaurants open almost all the time. Accommodation is inexpensive, food is incredibly varied, and the international presence is welcoming. Culturally closer to Thailand than its two eastern neighbors, Laos’ capital is the perfect place to spend a weekend before covering the rest of the country.

Vientiane is easily accessible from southern Laos and northeast Thailand, with buses constantly departing the city’s crowded bus station. The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge, just a few kilometers to the south of Vientiane, is the entry point for most visitors, with trains reaching all the way from Bangkok to Nong Khai, the Thai border town.

What to see:

Patuxai, known to English speakers as ‘Victory Gate’, is a kitsch concrete monster in the middle of town. Designed in the style of the French ‘Arc de Triomphe’ this giant concrete arch is the centerpiece of Vientiane’s largest intersection and one of the most impressive pieces of art in the city. Built from concrete donated for use in the new airport, the monument somehow combines incredibly unattractive plain concrete with an impressive Buddhist design, resulting in an impressive piece of Vientiane’s skyline.

Pha That Luang, Vientiane’s largest Buddhist monument and Laos’ national symbol, is in Vientiane’s eastern suburbs. Most easily accessible using a tuk-tuk (also known as a ‘jumbo’ in Laos) or motorcycle taxi, the monument is well outside walking distance of the waterfront. Closed on Mondays, it’s best visited during the weekend, when many locals can be seen admiring the monument and monks can be seen in the area.

If you find yourself growing tired of Buddhist monuments, take a break and enjoy some Lao food beside the Mekong river. Vientiane’s riverfront district is charming and convenient at the same time, offering some of the best food choices and nightlife hot spots in the city. Sit at one of the many riverside restaurants and enjoy a Beer Lao, watch the sunset before strolling home to your guesthouse.

Where to stay:

The vast majority of Vientiane’s accommodation is centered around the riverfront, with bars, restaurants and guesthouses all competing for the most valuable real estate. Generally speak, it’s easiest to divide Vientiane’s accommodation options into three lots.

The riverfront road itself is relatively noisy, and features a few expensive guesthouses and boutique hotels. While the accommodation is generally of a high standard, prices aren’t cheap ($20+) and noise can be a problem at night. If you insist on a river view, make sure that your hotel or guesthouse is set back from the nightclubs and bars slightly to avoid a sleepless night.

The streets running perpendicular to the waterfront are perfect for cheap and quiet accommodation. A relatively simple double room is unlikely to cost more than $10, and will likely include a relatively scenic view of Vientiane, a hot water bathroom and a personal fridge and television. The further away from the waterfront you walk, the lower the prices get and the lower the noise level gets. Ideally, look for a guesthouse around a block from the waterfront itself, where prices are lowest and noise dies down at around 10PM.

Finally, almost five blocks to the east of the waterfront is another small tourist district, this time catering for ultra-budget travelers. Rooms here are available from as little as $5, however the quality certainly isn’t anything to write home about and the amenities can be fairly basic. Add to that the added walking distance to Vientiane’s prime districts and you get an option that’s unattractive, if inexpensive.

How to get around:

Motorcycle taxis are everywhere in Vientiane, with fares typically in the range of $1-2 for short trips around the city. Tuk-tuks, a common phenomenon in Thailand, have made their way across the Mekong, however it’s unlikely that you’ll see them traveling at the breakneck speeds of Bangkok traffic. Fares are slightly higher than on motorcycle taxis, however the added seats and storage space make them a popular option for travelers with luggage or large groups of travelers.

Motorcycle rental is inexpensive, and with Vientiane’s relaxed driving conditions is the perfect way to experience the city. Small Chinese motorcycles are available from as little as $4 per day, with semi-automatic gearboxes and storage racks generally costing a small premium. While it’s possible to make trips to Laos’ northern towns on these bikes, it’s certainly not the most comfortable way to get yourself to Luang Prabang.

Fortunately, bigger motorcycles are available, offering a level of comfort and convenience that the small scooters can’t match. Honda Baja bikes are common, and are more than enough to tackle northern Laos’ difficult and rough roads. When renting motorcycles in Laos, be sure to check the disc brakes, oil level and tire wear. While it’s unlikely to get a dud bike, it certainly pays to check for damage before setting off. Sethathilath Road, just two blocks from the waterfront, has several bike shops offering rental bikes of varying size and condition.

Costs, Customs and Extras:

Vientiane is slightly more expensive than other Lao cities, with the notable exception of Luang Prabang. Despite this, it’s unlikely that you’ll spend more than $25 per day if staying in standard accommodation and eating Lao food. When renting motorcycles or scooters, be sure to check the road for obstacles or open manhole covers. While it may seem strange, the latter is very common, especially on less-traveled streets and alleyways.