Pakse & 4000 Islands
Pakse is one of the largest towns in Laos, and the commercial center of southern Laos. The passage to the 4000 Islands, the town is an important travel hub in the region, leading many tours south towards Cambodia. While there’s not a lot to see in the town itself, it’s certainly a relaxing destination for a day of fun before heading onwards to Si Phan Don the lower Mekong region.
Those passing through Pakse on the way to Cambodia should be aware of the costs associated with getting to the border. Make sure to book a trip through a reputable travel agency, as it’s not uncommon for there to be absolutely no transport available on the Cambodian side of the border. For others, Pakse will simply be a transit point on the way to the 4000 Islands.
What to see:
Pakse doesn’t have much to offer the average traveler, save for the central market and a bowling alley. However, there are several scenic sites and wats outside the city itself. They’re best accessed by hired motorcycle or tuk-tuk, with costs generally proving less expensive than in north Laos. Anyone traveling onwards to the 4000 Islands is advised to pick up essential supplies in Pakse, as some products are difficult to find in Si Phan Don.
The 4000 Islands have a lot more to offer than Pakse. A mecca for travelers in southern Laos, these remarkable islands in the Mekong river are interesting, charming and much less fast paced than your average South East Asian tourism destination. The primary activity in the islands seems to be absolutely nothing, which is a welcome change from many of the rapid paced capitals that dot the region. Enjoy a day tubing by the Mekong, enjoying local Lao food and bicycling around the islands.
Don Det, the larger of the two islands, is the most popular and least expensive tourism destination. Stay at one of the many bungalows on the islands, some of which are as cheap as $3 per night. Facilities are basic, but the temperature is very comfortable and there’s really no need for absolute luxury when you’re perched on the side of a stunning river. Spend some time exploring the area on a mountain bike, and be sure to check out the Mekong waterfalls. While they’re a hazardous swimming spot, the river calms down further down the island with several swimming spots and diving rocks in the area.
If you want to get a well rounded view of the local area, take a boat tour around the islands and through the Mekong river. Local boats can be hired, complete with captain, for as little as $5 and offer a unique look into local river life. Feel free to ask around for specific destinations or remote islands, as boatmen are happy to arrange custom trips for a slightly higher price.
Where to stay:
Accommodation in Pakse is inexpensive, with rooms available from $5. Comfort isn’t exactly a priority at that price, with basic rooms generally sharing toilets and cooking areas, although with the amount of street food on offer there’s no need to cook for yourself. $10 will get you a comfortable room in the city center, complete with private bathroom and double bed.
In the 4000 Islands it’s a whole new story. Accommodation is incredibly inexpensive, albeit basic, with rooms available from as little as $1. At this price, you’re essentially paying for a hammock in a living room, but it’s still enjoyable given the surroundings. For $5 per night you can find a comfortable riverside bungalow, complete with double bed and mosquito net. Keep in mind that electricity on the islands is a luxury, and generators are typically switched off late at night and during the middle of the day. Don’t let this worry you, for internet cafes are available for contact and any travel agency will be able to call through to Pakse to arrange long-term travel and transportation.
How to get around:
Pakse is reasonably large, albeit not so large that you can’t navigate the major areas on foot. The vast majority of the guesthouses and restaurants are packed reasonably close together, so don’t be worried if you’re stuck without transportation in the city itself. However, if you want to visit nearby cultural and scenic attractions it’s best to get a tuk-tuk or rent a motorcycle. Locals will be happy to show you the way to local attractions, however it can often save time and worry to simply hire a motorcycle driver or spend extra money on a tuk-tuk.
In the islands, transportation is limited to bicycles and walking. While it’s possible to bring a motorcycle over by boat, it’s not really necessary or recommended. Don Det is the largest of the two major islands, and even then it’s still possible to bicycle from one end to the other in under 10 minutes. All of the major destinations on Don Det can be reached on foot, however those wishing to visit the waterfalls and swimming holes should rent a bicycle and make the trip by themselves. Bicycles are typically $1-2 for the day, and while the paths aren’t particularly comfortable, they’re very safe.
Finally, you’ll need to arrange a boat to take you to the 4000 Islands. If organized as part of a package tour, many travel agents will simply give you cash to pay for the ticket, rather than organizing it themselves. Make sure they give you at least 10,000 kip, as the tickets range in cost from 8,000 to 15,000. Also, you can save a significant amount of cash by spending some time waiting for the boats, as prices tend to decrease as more people book tickets. An empty boat ride will prove expensive, while a ride with multiple people is unlikely to cost you more than 10,000 kip.
Costs, Customs and Extras:
Southern Laos is just beginning to adjust to tourism, so costs are very low and amenities are generally fairly basic. While this doesn’t make for the most comfortable travel destination, it does make the entire experience more rewarding and adventurous. The 4000 Islands are very inexpensive, and once you’re made it to the islands it’s highly unlikely that you’ll end up spending anything more than $15-20 per day.
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