Kampot is a small provincial town in Cambodia’s south-west corner, offering relatively little to anyone other than the most intrepid adventure traveler. However, for the adventure traveler it’s a paradise, offering access to Bokor National Park, a huge variety of hiking tracks and enduro biking areas, and the waterfall at Teuk Chrreu. Easily accessible from Phnom Penh and Sihanoukville, the town is slowly moving away from its backwater atmosphere and embracing major tourism.

For years, Kampot was the starting ground for trips to Bokor National Park, an abandoned French colonial villa and recreation site. Tours were once available from as little as $5, which included transportation to the villa along a grueling mountain road, refreshments and a ride back home in a 4WD or motorcycle. However, the road to Bokor is currently in a state of disrepair and the costs of entry to the park have dramatically increased, making Kampot less of a one-size-fits-all destination and more of an intrepid adventure zone.

Despite these changes, the town is still incredibly rewarding for adventure travelers, offering perhaps the best combination of adventure and convenience to be found in Cambodia. While not as undeveloped as the north-east, Kampot and the nearby natural area is the perfect playing pen for motorcyclists, adventurers and dedicated hikers.

What to see:

Bokor National Park is by far Kampot’s largest tourist draw. While it was once a major tourism zone, it’s now more of an adventure zone open to only the most dedicated travelers. Prices have increased from $5-10 to around $40, owing primarily to the difficulty in navigating the road and the increased costs or park admission. However, this has resulted in a major benefit for adventure tourists: the park is almost completely clear of other people.

Accessing Bokor is no simple task. In order to get into the park, which is officially considered closed while a new road is built, you’ll need to ask around at guesthouses and travel agencies. Guided tours will cost around $40, which will include transport to and from the park along with some spartan eating options. While this is rewarding for a day-trip, by far the most exciting option is tackling the road yourself and spending some time in the park.

Save for Bokor, the most popular recreation spot in the area is the waterfall and river rapids at Teuk Chrreu. A popular spot amongst locals and tourists alike, the river offers excellent swimming and canoeing, with almost every tour operator in Kampot able to offer transportation and tours to the area.

Where to stay:

Accommodation is inexpensive and everywhere in Kampot, although there are relatively few high end accommodation options. The vast majority of rooms in Kampot are of the $7-10 variety, offering a double bed, hot water bathroom and small balcony. The vast majority of accommodation is centered near the central market, with guesthouses competing primarily on price point. If once place doesn’t satisfy you, simply move on next door — there are enough guesthouses that you’ll undoubtedly find one in your price bracket.

For a slightly larger dose of luxury, try the accommodation options on Riverside Road. While it’s unlikely that you’ll find 5-star quality accommodation, there are several boutique options available from as little as $20 per person. At the higher end, rooms will offer a large double or queen bed, hot water shower and bathtub, and possibly wireless internet. If your guesthouse doesn’t offer internet access, don’t worry. Internet cafes are common and priced from just 2000 riel (50 cents) per hour.

How to get around:

With Bokor being the major draw, it’s wise to book a guided tour to the ranger station and villa house. Ask around at tour companies to get the price, but expect to pay at least $40 for a day trip to the National Park. While this may seem expensive, the road is very poor and requires a 4WD vehicle to get up, which when combined with the increased access costs increases the price significantly.

The most adventurous option is to rent a motorcycle and make the trip yourself. There are several shops in town offering 250cc dirt bikes, typically late-90s Japanese models such as the Honda Baja and Yamaha TTR250. Both are perfect for navigating the Bokor road, and will comfortably reach the top if treated with enough care. Be sure to check for oil leaks, fork seals and overall care before renting a bike. While many are in good condition it’s not uncommon to find models with thin brakes, poor oil levels and other damage.

As for transportation within the town itself, the best way to get around is on the back of a motorcycle. Motorcycle taxis are virtually everywhere, and will rarely cost more than $2 to take you to any destination within the town itself. Even long distance trips to Sihanoukville and the Vietnamese border will cost under $10, with drivers available for day length bookings if required.

Costs, Customs and Extras:

Kampot is much more relaxed than Cambodia’s major cities, and generally moves at a significantly slower pace. Be sure to keep this in mind when booking tours and transportation options. While it may say 9:00AM on your ticket, don’t be surprised if things only begin to get moving at 9:30. Of course, this is part of travel in Cambodia, but the attitude seems to be more adopted in Kampot than in other provincial towns.

Bokor National Park has been largely cleared of landmines, however they still exist off the major paths. When hiking in the park, stick to the paths, and if venturing into unknown territory be sure to take a ranger with you. Assistance is available from the city at relatively low costs and is well worth it, both in terms of safety and in their ability to help you navigate through the park safely.