Vietnam’s interesting capital city is a treasure for history buffs, cultural fanatics and food fans the world over. The political and cultural capital of Vietnam, Hanoi offers a wide range of interesting museums, important political locations, historical war buildings and memorials, and access to some of Vietnam’s most interesting and important tourism destinations. Due to its strategic positioning in the far north of Vietnam, Hanoi has been a constant battle-spot for most of its existence, a point proven by the massive amount of Chinese culture visible in the city.

Take a look at Hanoi’s skyline and you’ll see that this city isn’t quite like Ho Chi Minh City. While Ho Chi Minh City is renowned as Vietnam’s business and finance capital, Hanoi offers a more relaxed and slow-paced feel, favoring history and comfort over frantic commerce and development. That said, there’s plenty of modern infrastructure, and Hanoi is rapidly changing into a 21st century city.

Much like it’s southern sister city, Hanoi has frantic and non-stop motorcycle traffic, large amounts of confusing roadways, and pedestrian crossings that are often ignored. If you’re having trouble getting through the traffic, find a Vietnamese person crossing the road and follow closely behind them.

What to see:

There’s a huge range of cultural sites on display in Hanoi. For a grim reminder of the Vietnam War, check out Hoa Lo Prison, known during the war as the ‘Hanoi Hilton.’ As a pre-war French prison, the North Vietnamese army converted it into holding cells for foreign pilots, POWs and prisoners. While it’s not the most uplifting location, it’s certainly an interesting look into the wartime history of Hanoi.

The Temple of Literature, located near the city’s Old Quarter, is a highly recommended half-day trip. Featuring some of the most impressive stone work in Vietnam, the temple served as an early university. The names of many of the graduates are carved into the buildings and on the back of many of the stone tortoises.

Finally, no trip to Hanoi would be complete without a visit to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. Housed inside a rather intimidating Soviet-style building, Ho Chi Minh’s body lies preserved and cared for inside a glass chamber. There’s strictly no cameras allowed, and visitors are quickly ushered through under the supervision of Vietnamese military guards. Don’t let that put you off though, it’s a remarkably interesting look into the life of one of Vietnam’s most influential people, and the other facilities in the park make the trip even more worthwhile. Spend a half-day there and be sure to look at the One Pillar Pagoda, Ho Chi Minh’s wartime house, and the Ho Chi Minh Museum.

Where to stay:

The majority of Hanoi’s accommodation is located in the Old Quarter, a small area in the city center packed with colonial architecture, crowded streets and interesting shopping sights. Much more charming that Ho Chi Minh City’s packed shopping boulevards, the Old Quarter features a more slow-paced charm and atmospheric qualities that are unmatched anywhere in Vietnam, save for possibly Hoi An.

Budget accommodation is available from around $10. While you’ll undoubtedly be able to find cheaper rooms than this, remember that Hanoi can get very cold in the winter, and the last thing you need is to be stuck in a room with poor flooring and insulation. For around $17 you’ll be able to find a twin room featuring hot water, a reasonable view and air conditioning for the summer.

Keep in mind that the Old Quarter can be incredibly loud well into the night. Picking rooms that are set back from the roadways, especially rooms that are up several floors and down alleyways, will help you avoid the constant honking of motorcycle horns. Many backpackers report that the noise can be so bad in certain rooms that it’s necessary to wear earplugs during the night. Your mileage may vary, but it’s strongly recommended to look into accommodation that’s slightly set back from the streets.

How to get around:

The Old Quarter is small enough to navigate on foot, and features almost all of the amenities that you’ll need during your time in Hanoi. Hoan Kiem Lake, one of Hanoi’s most scenic and beautiful lakes, is located within easy walking distance of the Old Quarter and is the perfect place to spend a morning absorbing the Hanoi atmosphere and relaxing before viewing other sights. Internet cafes and all types of food are available within the Old Quarter streets, with food stalls offering everything imaginable.

For reaching the more distant attractions it’s advisable to hire a taxi. There are several taxi companies operating in Hanoi, with Hanoi Taxi being the recommended brand. While some small taxis might appear to be cheaper than branded ones, many of the independent operators rig their meter to increase faster than it should, sometimes boosting your fare to ten times the original price. Don’t waste time on the unbranded taxis, since it’s likely that they’re operating this scam. If you find yourself in a rigged taxi, ask the driver to pull over and leave. While they may argue with you about the fare, mentioning the police or motioning people over to help you will have them leaving the scene quickly.

If you’re looking to save money, motorcycle taxis are available almost everywhere within the Old Quarter. There’s no meters, so prices are set before you hop on. ALWAYS negotiate with the motorcycle taxi drivers, since it’s likely that their initial prices are much higher than the market rate. If you need a driver for the entire day, many motorcycle taxi drivers will be happy to take you from one destination to the next, all for an increased fee. Negotiate a price before hopping on the bike and you’ll avoid any surprises.

Costs, Customs and Extras:

By Vietnamese standards, Hanoi is quite an expensive city. Vietnamese meals range from $1-4 and foreign food can cost upwards of $10 per dish even in relatively low key restaurants. However, by eating at street stalls you can keep costs down, even if it means having to experiment with some unknown foods. If you’re feeling game, cooked dog is a Hanoi specialty, and is available at many of the restaurants around the city.