Phnom Sampeou

Phnom Sampeou is one of the most popular visitor attractions in the whole of Cambodia – and looking at it, it is not hard to see why! This attraction can be found 12 kilometres southwest of the city of Battambang and is steeped in history and legend. Phnom Sampeou is a name that every Cambodian will be familiar with, largely due to the legend of Rumsay Sok that is associated with the hillside.

Indeed, the name of the mountain means “ship mountain”; the legend states that the rocky outcrop is the hull of a ship that was broken by a crocodile that was in love with Rumsay Sok but it was unrequited. The crocodile attacked Rumsay Sok and her fiancé whilst at sea and they unfortunately drowned. The locals punished the crocodile by draining the sea to kill it; its body is represented by the Crocodile Mountain (Phnom Krapeu) that can be seen from the top of Phnom Sampeou.

A visit to Phnom Sampeou essentially starts with a climb of 700 steps to the top. There is also a cemented road which you can use to walk up or take a motoride to the summit. Situated on the hilltop is a beautiful pagoda that

gives breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. As well as the pagoda, which was actually used as a prison and torture centre during the time of the Khmer Rouge, there are a series of shrines and statues to be found along the way. It is most likely that you will be visiting Phnom Sampeou to explore the natural caves and grottos that have taken part in one of the most horrific genocides in human history.

Just as Phnom Penh has Choeung Ek, Battambang has the caves at Phnom Sampeou. As well as being one of the most important places in Cambodia for

the battles between the Khmer Rouge and the government, many innocent people lost their lives in the caves. As you scale the mountain, you will see remnants of the war in the form of anti-aircraft guns and they are a poignant reminder of the realities of war. One of the caves has piles of skulls, bones and clothing of the victims who lost their lives here. Next to this memorial to the dead, there is a beautiful Buddha in a reclined position. It is stated that the Khmer Rouge used this cave to throw the prisoners to their death. There is a hole at the top of the cave where it is reported prisoners were bludgeoned and then hurled to the bottom of the cave through a hole. When you visit the Killing Caves at Phnom Sampeou, you will notice that it is not a long drop from the hole to the bottom; this meant that not everyone was dead when they were pushed into the cave – chilling and emotional thought.

Even if you do not wish to explore the caves, Phnom Sampeou is worth a visit just to take in the spectacular views. Many visitors like to climb their

way to the top and have a picnic lunch whilst enjoying the wonderful Cambodian countryside. The cost to enter Phnom Sampeou is US$2 and if you take a moto it will cost approximately US$5 from Battambang (this includes waiting time whilst you visit the mountain). Taxis are also available or you could hire your own car or motorbike for the day.