Phnom Penh is Cambodia’s capital city, home to some chilling reminders of the civil war and Khmer Rouge routine. Despite having the dubious honor of sitting virtually uninhabited for four years, Phnom Penh is a bustling city rapidly updating to the 21st century. With tuk-tuks blasting through city streets, mobs of motorcyclists moving down the boulevards and busy workers in public areas, Phnom Penh is as much a bustling South-East Asian city as Bangkok or Saigon.

The vast majority of Phnom Penh’s tourist infrastructure is concentrated along the riverfront, where the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers meet. With bars, restaurants and accommodation being largely centered around this area, most tourists will have no trouble finding western comforts and familiar products. Despite being less developed than most Thai cities, Phnom Penh has almost every imaginable amenity or service on offer.

As the major travel hub for Cambodia, buses to and from Phnom Penh service most destinations. Travelers arriving in Cambodia from Vietnam will most likely end up in Phnom Penh. From here, buses, planes and private transport are available to almost anywhere in Cambodia.

What to See

Toul Sleng Genocide Museum - S21Much of Phnom Penh’s history is wrapped up in the Khmer Rouge occupation during the 1970s. After the siege of Phnom Penh, the population was marched from the city and forced to labor in fields all day. Those who resisted were left in the city and tortured or executed.

One major reminder of this regime is the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum, a former high school that was converted into a prison and torture center. Now a museum, the building houses some chilling exhibits and preserved rooms from the torture center.

Not a destination for the faint of heart, it’s nonetheless an important and saddening part of Cambodia’s history.

Further out from the city center are the Killing Fields, where rebelling peasant and citizens were taken for execution. Found after the Vietnamese invasion in 1979, the fields were mass grave sites for over one million Cambodians.

Memorial Stupa at The Choeung Ek Killing Fields in CambodiaThe field by Phnom Penh features a Buddhist stupa and memorial sites.

There are also many mass graves at this site. Thousands of Cambodians were brought here to be executed, and you can still see some of the remnants of clothing from the victims.

Again, the Killing Fields aren’t a great destination for enjoyment and entertainment, but they’re an important part of Cambodia’s history and offer a unique look into the regime that forever changed the country.

Finally, for a more upbeat look at the city, be sure to visit the Royal Palace. Featuring emerald Buddha statues and remarkable Cambodian architecture, they’re located near Sisowath Quay, and a pleasant walk away from the many restaurants and parks that dot the riverside area.

Best viewed in the morning before the heat picks up, the Royal Palace is the perfect way to spend the day before relaxing along Phnom Penh’s waterfront area and enjoying the many public parks and eateries available.

Where to Stay

Accommodation in Phnom Penh ranges from ultra-budget to five star. While the vast majority of travelers to Phnom Penh lean towards the lower end of the price scale, there is a large variety of mid-range and high class hotels around the city.

Where to stay in Phnom PenhFor backpackers the center of activity is undoubtedly the riverfront area around Sisowath Quay. Home to 90% of Phnom Penh’s bars, you’ll have no trouble finding nighttime entertainment and interesting Khmer food on offer.

Accommodation starts at around $10, which will give you a basic double room and hot water shower for the night.

Those looking for slightly cheaper accommodation best look further away from the riverfront. Phnom Penh isn’t a huge city, and transport is relatively cheap, so it’s often a good idea to book accommodation that’s slightly further away from the riverfront and get some more bang for your buck.

Rooms that would cost $10 at the near the river will end up costing just $5 further away, with very comfortable double rooms available from around $7. Most, if not all, accommodation will accept payment in both USD and Cambodian Riel.

Upper class accommodation is largely centered on Sisowath Quay, with more comfortable rooms available from around $30. For pure five-star treatment, you’ll likely need to pay $100 or more, with rooms typically offering stunning views of the Tonle Sap and Mekong rivers, panoramic balcony views of the Royal Palace, and comfortable service and amenities.

How to Get Around

Motorcycles are the standard method of transportation for Phnom Penh locals, and while they’re not ultra-safe, they’ve got less road competition in Phnom Penh than in Bangkok’s busy streets.

A typical motorcycle taxi ride will end up costing you less than $2, with higher prices only ever required for long distance travel. A ride out to the Killing Fields on a motorcycle taxi will likely cost around $10. If you’re not comfortable on the back of a motorbike you may want to pre-arrange a tour.

Tuk-tuks are everywhere and relatively inexpensive, especially when compared to their Thai counterparts. For around $15, you can secure a tuk-tuk driver for a couple of hours and visit the Killing Fields, Phnom Penh’s countryside and see a neat local look at the city.

When returning from the Killing Fields, don’t be surprised if your driver offers to take you to a local gun range. While the offer might seem slightly morbid and bizarre after a day at a memorial, he’s likely looking for a healthy commission from the gun range owners.

Taxis are also available, and are certainly a more comfortable option in the incredibly hot Phnom Penh sun. Most drivers will not use meters for transportation, instead requiring you to work out a price in advance. While this can be difficult for newbies to the city, after a while you’ll have no trouble negotiating a fair price for travel.

Costs, Customs and Extras

While Phnom Penh is less developed than most of Vietnam and Thailand, prices are fairly similar, and often higher for western products. A filling meal can be found for as little as $1, and most restaurants will cost less than $10 per head.

You’ll likely see many beggars in Phnom Penh, some of whom were wounded during the Khmer Rouge period and are unable to earn a living today. It’s up to you whether to give or not — many are part of organized begging efforts.