Phonsavan is a town in the far north of Laos, capital of Xieng Khouang Province. Home to over 50,000 people, the town itself isn’t a major tourism center, although it offers access to one of Laos’ most interesting and mysterious attractions: the Plain of Jars. Phonsavan exists primarily because of the destruction of the region’s older capital, Xieng Khouang, during the fighting between Lao communist guerrillas and American-backed anti-communist troops during the late 1960s and 1970s.

As one of Laos’ most remote and mountainous destinations, Phonsavan is most commonly accessed by air. The small airport links the city to Vientiane with an average of 5 flights per week, with scheduling becoming more common in the high season (November-January). While most visitors fly directly to the town, there are tourist buses linking to Phonsavan from Luang Prabang, Vang Vieng and Vientiane. Trips generally take around 8-10 hours from major centers, with most buses being escorted by Lao police or security guards to minimize the interference of bandits.

What to see:

Phonsavan itself isn’t a particularly fascinating or appealing tourism town, however it serves up all of the basic amenities that are expected. Restaurants offer Lao, Thai and Western foods at relatively cheap prices, and accommodation options are available for almost every price bracket, with the exception of 5-stay luxury accommodation. While most visitors don’t stay in the town, it is a perfectly usable base for exploring the region.

The Plain or Jars are undoubtedly the main attraction in the province. Presenting a total mystery to historians and archaeologists, these remarkable stone jars sit in the area in the hundreds, and are completely unexplained in history or creation. Unlike Angkor or the many cultural and historical sites within Cambodia or Thailand, the jars remain completely unexplained and unaccounted for in history.

Despite this, recent history hasn’t been particularly kind to the area. Despite Laos’ lack of involvement in the Vietnam war, the area remains one of the most bombed on earth, and unexploded ordnance still litters the areas surrounding the plains. Don’t let this put you off from visiting — the Plain of Jars itself is completely cleared of any explosives and there is absolutely no risk to tourists. If anything, this grim recent history simply adds another level of mystery to the destination.

How to get around:

Phonsavan itself isn’t particularly large, and all of the major tourist areas can be accessed on foot. While the city center provides all the services that you could need, tuk-tuks and motorcycle taxis are available to take you to further afield destinations. Fares within the city are unlikely to be higher than $2-3, with short hops around the city around $1 or less.

To explore the Plain of Jars, you have several options. The first is to take an organized tour to the area. While this will save you the inconvenience of working out your own transport, it may leave you feeling as if you’ve been herded through the area with a swarm of other tourists. Bus tours are typically guided and will provide some level of detail into the area, albeit not great in detail — the reason for the jars’ existence still isn’t 100% certain.

The other option is to rent a motorcycle locally and use it to access the Plain of Jars yourself. With hire prices around $7-8, it’s more expensive than at other locations in Laos, but the freedom afforded to you by your own transport it certainly worth the price. The roads aren’t busy, and the only things you’ll likely have overtaking you are other motorcycles and the occasional tourist bus. In contrast to the streets of Phnom Penh or Bangkok, driving in rural Laos is very simple.

The third option is to charter a tuk-tuk or motorcycle taxi for the day. If you go with this option, agree to a price for your time in bulk, and give yourself the option to cut things shorter than anticipated. If you can find a driver that speaks passable English, you’ve saved yourself from entering an organized tour and may be able to get some information on the jars and region from them. Motorcycle taxis and tuk-tuks can be found almost anywhere in the city, and are especially present in the tourist area.

Where to stay:

Phonsavan has the standard fare of accommodation available, ranging from $4 guesthouses to $50 semi-luxury accommodation. While $4 will likely buy you a comfortable bed for the night, it’s unlikely to provide much warmth or privacy. Remember that northern Laos gets cold during the high season (November through February) and nighttime temperatures aren’t always in keeping with the daytime heat. If possible, try to find a room in a relatively new building, with air conditioning and heating available.

A moderately comfortable room, complete with double bed, air conditioning and private bathroom should cost somewhere in the range of $10. Be sure to look around at several rooms before deciding, as it’s possible you’ll find lower prices or discounts for long-term stays by asking around several guesthouses.

Costs, Customs and Extras:

While Xieng Khouang Province was heavily bombed during the 1970s, it’s highly unlikely that you’ll run into any unexploded ordnance. Yes, it remains, and yes it’s a threat to farmers and rural communities, but in the major centers and roadways you have a greater risk of being struck by lightning than by stepping on it. As always, pay attention to signage in rural areas and DON’T enter any areas with mine warning signs.